Never heard of any timing chain issues since the SL which eventually went to a double row chain. If the belt was picked up from just a run of the mill parts place there is a high chance that it is of sub-standard quality.
To me it looks like an entire rib of the belt was ripped off so either I think one of the pulleys is mis-alligned or the belt was put on incorrectly. I did just have one of the pulleys replaced which seems to lend credence to the mis-alignment of the pulleys. There doesnt appear to be any obstructions. This is like rowing upstream - what caused you to have a pulley replaced There are three kindof-basic issues I have seen that can cause a belt to shred - idler pulley bad tensioner or failing water pump.
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Idler pulley - inexpensive part takes a bit of labor to loosen or remove the fan blade so the idler wheelpulley bolt can be taken out all the way. Quote Originally Posted by fabbrisd1 This is like rowing upstream - what caused you to have a pulley replaced There are three kindof-basic issues I have seen that can cause a belt to shred - idler pulley bad tensioner or failing water pump.
Quote Originally Posted by haoz Retract the tensioner then slip the belt in takes about 10 mins. But again it was me. Replace pulleys and tensioner are bit more time consuming.
For a technician setup the bay bring the car in and out diagnose even wash the car all count. Other than the price get in the shop is a bit tricky now - No belt no power steering no battery charge no water pumpcoolant circulation - Due to above circumstances you are not suppose to drive and the safest way is to get a tow - However not recommended though somehow you find a very close.
The reason why the belt broke was because my automatic belt tensioner was broken Luckily I had an auto store a mile away we go the part put the part back together and the belt the car is like new again. The heat works even better and my steering wheel is smoother It was fun working on the car too. I dont know about the K miles thing but chain are good until it start to make noise.
My e30 m3 got over K miles and no noise what so ever.
When we open it up for cams mods the only thing that was wear was the chain plastic guider. However Linh makes a good point - these chain s may go longer than that. Keep in mind that the life of the chain depends upon many variable factors that are not necessarily the same for every car. So for me Im not going to do anything until at least k Again we enter unchartered territory. Big gamble to take as Bruce mentioned you are not going to get a written invitation to change the chain and when they go they do just go.
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A rattly chain is not always indicative same as a chain thats done the miles that is quite is not indicative. I wouldnt play with fate or you might just end.
Crikey km is nothing most of our cars on the forum have way beyond that. Like Bazzle I too would like to know if there were any clues that something was wrong before it broke. The dealer will charge you big time to rebuild the heads and such.
You may seek out a salvage yard for used heads or an entire motor maybe an SLK32 motor. Did anyone get an estimate from a dealer on what it costs to change. Welcome to this section of the forum. Youll enjoy the coupe.
Good Luck Jayare. Come on The Timing chain is Made to outlast the engine Lucky me I purchased.. A Clk with only 55k miles a week ago. Thank you very much rich old lady..
The two normal places to check are the fixed idler pulley on the upper left and the belt tensioner which is mid-way down on the lower right. The ideler pully pop the cover on the front and check for cracks running from the outer edge down towards the center. Keep the beat.
Quote Originally Posted by car5car I checked tensioner wheel bearing seemed good. What do you mean bush Are you talking about tensioner lever Not the tensioner wheel.
The part I am talking about is a component of the accessory belt tensioner. It is like a little shock absorber.
It is the bushing in the eye of the shock where the bolt goes through im refering to httpwww. If its the old style its very likely that it could be the bearings on that. Quote Originally Posted by gsmcintyre Okay I finally took a few minutes to remove the serpentine belt and boy am I glad I did Ive recently replaced the idler so Im pretty sure thats not the problem. After moving all the pulleys the water pump squeaks when turned by hand and has a little seems minor but still play in the pulley.
I think that is the culprit Thanks for the advice and sorry for highjacking. It has been running with this noise for over a year now.
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Trying to isolate the cause. Is the AC running If so turn it off and check for the noise. If it goes away then I would suspect the compressor. Since you say it climbs and falls with RPM I would also suspect if one of your chain guides has cracked or broken. To check this you would need to remove the valve cover and inspect the chain and guides that are visible for damage or wear. I havent seen any incidents of chain replacement or excessive wear on the motors. These chain s are very beefy and I doubt strongly that they would need replacement prior to k miles.
Quote Originally Posted by bluecgar99 the Slk has a chain and this is what happen to me I have a SLk amd my timing chain burst at km my car is at the dealer right now and he started to talk about bended valves etc etc Ouch.
Get MBUSA involved - may be they will offer split the cost of repair if they didnt have the recommendation to change the timing chain at Quote Originally Posted by bluecgar99 the Slk has a chain and this is what happen to me I have a SLk amd my timing chain burst at km my car is at the dealer right now and he started to talk about bended valves etc etc I have a feeling that this is going to make your ass bleed Well you may be saying pistunbroke. Keep us up to date mate and good luck with it.
Once upon a time I had two different SLs with the engine series. In case you didnt knowthat chain ran from the cranshaft up to the first camdropped back down into the enginethen back up to the next cam before diving back down to the crankshaft in a W pattern.
That is a link chain as I recall with two wear points on each link. I used to sweat bullets that one would either let go or jump. My car has the belt tensioner issue. Ill have it done on my next oil change.
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My indie has the 40 part for my visit next week. As you know this is a quick do. The C I had earler this year would make a racket then it would go away. That was the motor mounts. Another indie explained that some of the oil has leaked from the mount and when the car warms up the mounts expand with gas and the problem goes.
Wish it was a belt but am hoping the Indy Mech has good news as far as oil I had the services done at the dealer except the last one and it was Synthetic Mobile 1 dont remember if it was 5w but I used what the MB Service advisor recommended and always changed with miles of service meter.
The noise in my engine comes from the top and is not like that. That sounds like a really aggressive knock and strange that it comes and goes like that. See what happens when you take the belt of you might be able to hear more clearly with it off as well without everything else running.
A new tensioner might help yours as it is intermittent. Sent from AutoGuide. Nice work. Definitely replace the water pump if you are in there.
Thats a no brainer. Any axial wobble in a pulley bearing is shot or the plastic pulley has failed. I replaced the tensioner on my a few weeks back. The serp belt idler pulley broke off in my hand. Both pulley and its bearing were shot.
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Cheap German rubbish only did k miles. In case you are wondering theres a quick mod that allows you to replace the idler without removing the fan and shroud.
Or there is since I did it -. When I had the catastrophic belt tensioner failure three weeks ago it spat out metal shavings from the bearing I replaced the idler pulley at the same time. I agree that the wobble in the water pump doesnt look right and neither the wobble in the PS pump. So I think Ill get both done and report back. I can remove the fan in no time but havent figured where the bolts are for the fan shroud.
Yes therere some issues to take in considerations before deciding for a new engine. As for me I decided to get a new engine - really expensive decision - considering the scenario of a car which condition is perfect both the body and the mechanical parts The old engine has been sent to Germany and got as discount for the new one. Engine suspensions clutch. The WIS makes no reference to setting up the engine position first.